After a male visit, a long wait begins, looking at the growth of the abdomen, weight gain, swollen and reddening of the nipples. Sometimes it feels that there is no certainty about the puppies or kittens before it is finally over, and the puppies or kittens are already coming into the world. I'm trying to be there or attainable at the time of the birth of the puppies or kittens, whether they are at my place or in a foster home.
When small puppies/kittens are born, they get a three day rest period, when the puppies are weighed and possibly labeled if it is difficult to distinguish them. Most commonly, I use nail polishes of different colors to put a small tip on their tail, because the tail is rarely washed by the mom.
After that, we start the Bio Sensor program, which lasts for the first few weeks of their lives. During this time, the physical development of puppies is very rapid (eyes and ears open), the body goes through the learning of different trajectories and fights with the litter mates. Sometimes the fights can look pretty awkward or even raw when the puppies or kittens compete with each other. At this point, it is still good to keep track of the growth and development of puppies and kittens every day, and to intervene if one is found steadily at the others feet and therefore also after growing.
When puppies turn 3 weeks old, they get to taste solid food for the first time. I personally try to feed the puppies meat-rich foods as much as possible and from several different brands, so that it is easy for new owners to choose what to start feeding the puppies. Not everything is for everyone.
Most commonly, I divide food into four different groups:
Those that allow the cats to be exposed as a puppy all the time, at first they can also be softened with liquid, (that gimmick can also be used with adult cats who drink badly). As brands, I prefer grain-free foods with a high percentage of meat, such as Ziwipeak, Thrive, Applaws, Canagan, Acana, Purizone and Orijen. As a general rule, I use chicken or game as flavors, trying to keep the food for both cats and dogs as organic as possible.
When the puppies are 3 weeks old, they will be able to taste solid food for the first time. In fact, I try to supply the puppies with the meatiest meals and many different brands so that new owners can easily choose what they want to feed to their puppy or kitten. Everything is not suitable for everyone.
Most commonly, I divide food to four categories:
For cats to be present all the time, they can initially be softened with liquid, but gradually this softening should be omitted, for example, around 4 weeks. I favor high protein cereal crops such as Ziwipeak, Applaws, Canagan, Acana and Orijen. As a rule, I use chicken or game, as I try to keep both cats and dogs on as organic of a diet as possible.
I do use wet food as a treat for dogs, but usually this is more a category for cats and I tend to replace some of the raw food meals, as cat owners seem to favor wet foods. In these terms, I prefer similarly as in dry food the foods with most meat such as Ziwipeak, Applaws, Canagan, Natures Menu, Cats Finefood, Carny and Bozita.
Most of the kittens and puppies foods are based on raw food, simply because I prefer raw foods and I am ready to give advice to those homes who want to follow suite. As raw food I use Mush, Rahula, Murkis, Murren murkina, basic meat from the store and individual products from other producers. With small kittens and puppies I often use either ready-made pulps or ground products such as turkey, chicken, reindeer, sheep and, where possible, deer and reindeer.
When the puppies and kittens grow bigger, the size of their dishes and the mouthpiece increase, including whole or sliced gizzler, hearts, liver as well as various gristles and mice for the cats.
I try to make delicacies a part of the diet of the puppies and kittens and therefore the most meaty, tasty and nutritious - so the puppies learn to eat food other than cup food. I bet you can already guess some of my favorites: Natures Menu, Natural Menu, Orije, AniPuro, Planet Pet Society, True Instinct, Coucou, Itsybitsy and Thrive, just to name a few.
From three to six weeks old, the puppies practice going to the litter box for the first time, brushing, brushing their teeth, trimming their nails, going to the bathroom and other grooming procedures. The touch cane and clicker are also practiced, as well as the use of the harness. The first strangers also start coming to the village to watch the puppies and get them used to strangers towards the end of this time. When the weather permits, we will also try outdoor activities.
After this, the puppies start going on small trips to get used to driving and to strange places. For cats and dogs, these places are very different, because cats less often need to be taken to, for example, train stations or shopping centers to get used to noise and commotion. Instead, we visit people's homes and, if possible, we also go outside in a harness, getting used to the surroundings and things that the cat might most likely come across in its new home.
Practicing with your mother or siblings brings security. And makes the puppy braver - A good mother sets the best example.
Already learned and new skills should be practiced most intensively during the cat's first year of life - and maintained throughout life
At the age of three weeks, kittens will also need to include a sandbox (use as much coarse pellets and perfume as the cat is easy to move from coarse to soft, fine and odorless sand but to the other direction it is more challenging) and puppies start to practice outdoors several times a day (when they wake up, after eating, and after playtime), mid-winter outdoor activities will be saved at a later date, and puppies will also have a froth-filled box (eg mold or peat-based).
From three-week-old to six-week-old puppies and kittens are training brushing, dental care, nail clipping and washing sessions, as well as other healthcare measures. There will also be target stick and klicker training, as well as harnessing. The first new people also start coming to visit puppies and kittens, so they get used to strangers.
After that, the puppies will start to come along on small excursions to get to know the car and to be in strange places. The places vary with cats and dogs, as cats rarely need to go to train stations or shopping malls to get used to noise and buzzing life. Instead, we visit the homes of people and, if possible (saying not mid-winter), walk outside in harnesses. I try to get the puppies to get to the fullest extent possible in the environments that the dog might have during their life.
At around six to eight weeks, the puppies will have the latest nature estimates to determine what kind of families are suitable for each puppy or kitten. If I do not feel the puppy or kitten is suitable for a certain kind of family, I don’t make a deal, so this is totally puppy-specific and each puppy and family are separately assessed for their compatibility.
To facilitate the homecoming of the puppy, we will be happy to go to visit the new homes with puppies or kittens before their move, if this is only possible to reach the distance. Additionally, if there are other pets in the family, we send the family cloths beforehand that other pets can sniff at. From the fabric it is good to give some treats to other pets to learn to combine this strange odor (a future new member of the family) with a nice thing.